Viking anvils from the Mastermyr find - part 2
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Viking anvils from the Mastermyr find – part 2



hello and welcome back to black bear forge what do you say we get back to our look at some of the tools from the master mirror collection in the last video we looked at my version of three of the items identified as anvils there are two more things identified in the book as anvils and I thought we would take a look at those today now these are not perfect reproductions the ones in the book have obviously been used over who knows how many years in this craftsmen's life so I tried to make what I thought they might have looked like when they were new now after having done this I've looked at the book a little bit more closely I've taken a pair of dividers and I've measured some of the parts of these anvils and compared them to other things in the book to see if they related somehow and we're going to talk about that a little bit more in the next video when I do the hardening and tempering but I might make another more accurate version that is more in keeping with exactly what I see in there to test the theory but you're going to need to tune in for that next video if you want to see what that theory is now there were lots of you in the comment sections and all sorts of theories on what these were used for how they were used the truth is we're never going to know unless we invent a time machine so if any of you have a time machine so we can go back and watch this person work I would love to hear what you find out let's get started on today's anvils the first one is something that most of us would recognize and most of us would find use for in the shop so even if you have no interest whatsoever in viking-age blacksmithing this is a tool you might like it's a simple beak or bic or bic iron vicar and whatever you want to call it it's just a single sided horn so if you're working on some sort of an anvil shaped object a big lump of steel a railroad track but you need a horn this is the solution to the problem and apparently it's a very old solution to the problem we're gonna start again with 4140 just because I want to make tools that are a little bit more durable than perhaps the originals were the originals were probably wrought iron and maybe they had some steel welded to them maybe they didn't the book didn't tell us that so I'm starting with five inches of one inch square 4140 and that works out to be about a hundred and twenty-five millimeters by 25 millimeters squared so let's take a look at where we are going with this little anvil so this first anvil is simply a round horn with a square shank that would go into a stump shank is tapered pretty much to a point this is a lousy drawing so don't take the drawing as a literal representation and it has a sort of an upset square corner that wasn't very well done and I'll see if I can actually do a little bit better job but it had this divot in there doesn't hurt anything I'm sure it was a completely useful tool and this is drawn out to about eleven point nine centimetres long here which is about four and a quarter inches in this tail that goes into the stump is about twelve point six centimeters now I'm sure you could turn this around put this into the stump and then you've got a square horn so it may have been used both ways and it's about an inch square here about an inch round here roughly the second little anvil is a little dinky thing that's three point four centimeters that's about an inch and a quarter across square on one side round on the other and it has a little tail whether that's an anvil or not we don't know but it looks very similar to a double bicker bicker iron and we're gonna go ahead and make one like that and also make it out of tool steel this made out of just wrought iron I don't think would last so it wouldn't surprise me at all if that whole thing was made out of steel but again the book does not tell us now I'm going to work in the gas Forge today just because I've been using it it's already pretty warm to hot to pick up and move to get to the coal Forge underneath I think I'm going to start by drawing out the spar section 31 40 is tough stuff to forge let's take work and because I'm using a tougher material this is not realistic as far as what a Viking blacksmith would have had to go through wrought iron Forge is much easier at some point we're going to make some things similar and we'll do it out of wrought iron I want to use just a little bit more than half of my material for the square side now the book shows this is tapering more in one dimension that it does the other so I'm not going to keep this as an even four-sided taper at this point so that's pretty much all I need to do with that let's turn it around now and we'll taper the other side and this one's rounded it is a more even taper pretty much the same thing start off with a square taper now before I go to the Octagon and the round stage on this this shows in the book that this has a little offset which would have made it easier to bend so I think I'll go ahead and forge that in there just do that with some half-face blows at the edge of the anvil this is going to end up a little longer than I intended just guess on my material size that I believe it will be just fine we're going the Octagon now and I'm not going to worry about making it perfectly round at this point I'm going to mess it up while I do the corner I just want to do most of the foraging so now I'm going to want to bend it right where I've put that offset another advantage of actually making this out of wrought iron is I would be able to quench this so that it bends better but not having done it out of wrought iron we're just going to have to do it this way this now gives me the ability to just get the corner in the Forge which means I'll deform it a little bit less it's still going to be some deformity here the other option would be to do all the drawing out after you bend it but that's kind of difficult to do all this drawing out once it's been bent this one already has a little bit cleaner Bend than the original so I don't really have to worry about it too much but I wouldn't mind it just a little bit cleaner than it is Long's are getting sweaty a hot day today we can round the horn up a little bit better the images in the book you can actually see some folds and cold shuts and maybe delamination from the wrought-iron along this seam here or it may be a place where there is a steel top welded to it again they don't comment on that which is regrettable just when I improve the angle here one in the book is pretty much 90 degrees at the not a crisp 90 but it forms 90 getting closer now if I were making one of these and letting myself use all of the modern tools I probably would have used a torch for controlled heat and then bent this under the fly press but since I'm trying not to use all of the modern conveniences especially for the sake of a video we'll keep messing with this a little bit although it's completely usable the way it is and I think I'm pretty happy with this you'll be real interesting when we get into making tools using some of these how different I'll have to think and approach the work and I don't have my familiar anvils and shapes and vices and things like that straightening and smoothing a little bit here I'll go ahead heat that up put my touch mark on it that'll let it normalize so that would be my take on anvil number 76 out of the master Muir find not exactly the same but it's in the same idea same vein about the same size we're just going to let that finish cooling and then when we do all the other hardening in temporary well harden in temper this one right along with the other stuff now if you're interested in this stuff and you want to kind of follow along with what I'm doing I strongly recommend you find a copy of the master mere find by Greta R Woodson and Gustav Berg this was last printed by Larson publishing I think Larson publishing is out of business you may have to find these on eBay or someplace like a books that sells used books I think you can still find some on Amazon but I don't know how many copies are out there in the world or somebody's reprinting them if you know that they're being reprinted and can link to the publisher down in the comments that would be great for this next little anvil I'm going to start with a piece of 5160 flat bar it's just a convenient bar that I happen to have around so I'm going to use that to make this last anvil I'm just going to start this with a half face blow create that little leg that supports the top of the anvil do both sides it's just a little key shape and then this also upsets the bar because this bar isn't quite as thick as the anvil is so by the time I'm done with this you can also work from this side but it's really easy to accidentally hit that leg so you're probably better off doing it this way this is getting close to a point that I'll go ahead and cut it off and separate it so I can refine it a little bit better if I see if it gives a thickness this is already getting much longer than my example in the book tell us have to remember it was not only used when it was still in use that makes any sense but it also been in a bog for a thousand years and it may have eroded away a little bit set that aside you kind of see what we've got going here now this little leg here is listed as two point two centimeters or 22 millimeters right now it's at 15 assuming they're measuring from the underside of they're measuring for the top it's a 25 so they don't actually say where their measurement is but I think it should be a little bit longer than it is so I'm going to see if I can get in here and draw that out this way it's going to be a little bit difficult but we might be able to do it a little bit of a difficult thing to get a good hold on here it was some persistence the other thing we can do is play put this in a nail header which I think would be plenty acceptable based on the fine because there was a nail header in the chest still leaves that leg a little bit short but it's a lot better I'm gonna go take a file real quick off-camera and clean that up because I got a little bit of an odd spot I don't like there I'm also going to take a moment and trim these ends because it's even assuming it was larger when it was first made it is considerably larger than what it is in the book will really trim it down here plus it still needs to be drawn out some certainly is not a blacksmithing anvil some people have speculated maybe he was doing some kind of jewelry work and that's possible although there's no other evidence of it other than tiny anvils the hammers are all much much bigger than that the anvils would suggest but there were also some locks with the find and looked like maybe some unfinished lock springs which would suggest maybe he was also working on locks there were certainly evidence he was working bronze both in raw materials and some bronze cauldrons and various stages of falling apart and having been repaired which they speculate we're really just raw materials for this person they were too far gone to be something he was actually fixing so that is now up to 25 millimeters and it was 22 millimeters in the fine so that's about as long as that needs to be and I'm gonna go ahead and refine the the top edge now one side was flat and it was kind of flared and tapered this way which was rounded we're trying to do that just gonna Forge a little bit of a flare into that that's pretty much all that ends gonna get this other end will dry out just a little bit and round it up the tough little thing to hold on to now as dinky as this is it's longer than the one in the find was that was 34 millimeters I'm up to about 50 millimeters here so it's considerably larger but it is so small I'm not sure I'm going to make it too much smaller there do a little bit of cleaning up I'll do some filing on it but that's really about it and this one I'm not going to put my touch mark on because there isn't room and I think earlier I said this was item number 76 this is item number 75 in the book this little dinky sort of an anvil like thing is item number 76 in the book that's all five anvils that are presented in this book but that's all I really have for today I hope you have time in your day to get out to your shop be safe wear your safety glasses we'll see you for the next one you

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